Arabisk mad i aften!

Jada, deres (min!) mad skal jeg jo ikke diskutere religion med. Arabisk kogekunst er faktisk ret spændende. Denne (eller disse) retter må iøvrigt siges at være langt mere “kulturberigende” end halal-hippiernes livret, shawarma, som er rimelig fantasiløs. Desuden giver de en forståelse af grunden til, at arabiske Mama’ladin’er er spærret inde i køkkenet, for damn det tager tid at lave… – jeg myrder mine gæster (I keeel you!), hvis de ikke ruller med øjnene af fryd!

I stedet for hakket lam bruger jeg her selvfølgelig hakket kalv og flæsk.

Og jeg vil anbefale en god, kraftig rødvin til disse krydrede retter, f. eks. den fremragende cuvée Adom 2001 fra Saslove, en vingård grundlagt i 1995 i Shomron-regionen nord-øst for Tel Aviv. Denne 100% Cabernet Sauvignon har en dyb farve, perfekt frugtagtig modenhed, solid, men elegant krop og godt afbalanceret bouquet.

Et andet forslag i samme skuffe kunne være Cabernet Sauvignon’en fra Margalit Estate syd for Zichron Ya’acov i Shomron-området.

Iøvrigt vil jeg kraftigt fraråde at bruge Rude [Rue] (Ruta graveolens), da den i lidt for store mængder kan irritere tarmslimhinderne.

List of ingredients:

Kødboller

Kødboller

For the meatballs:

500 gram minced lamb meat (oink, oink)
1 egg
1 tablespoon in all from thyme, corianderseed, cumin, saffron (ratio=3:3:2:1)
pepper,salt to taste
crumbs of3 slices of white bread
1/2 onion, chopped
1 1/2 tablespoon chopped coriander (cilantro) leaves
1/2 tablespoon chopped rue
2 garlic cloves
1 teaspoon murri

And:
3 tablespoons sesame oil or olive oil
1 teaspoon murri
1 dl chicken broth
2 tablespoons toasted pine nuts and slivered almonds
several twigs of rue, for decoration

Preparation in advance:
Mix everything for the meatballs. Form into small balls which can be eaten in one bite.

Preparation:
Heat the oil in a wide frying pan. Add the meatballs and brown them. Add chicken broth and murri, bring to the boil and temper the heat until the meatballs are done.

To serve:
Sprinkle the meatballs just before serving with toasted pine nuts and almond slivers, and adorn with twigs of rue if you have them.
The balls are to be eaten at room temperature, or slightly warm, but not sizzling hot. That would not be comfortable when one is to eat them by hand.

Pasties

Pasticher

Pasticher

The idea to use these recipes for aubergine (egg plant) and spinach as stuffing for pasties is not authentic. But even in those days there were already small pasties, called “sanbusaj”, predecessors of samosas. In the Kitab al-Tabikh-al-Baghdadi these pasties are baked in sesame oil. The dough consisted of wheat flour with or without yeast. There is also a “flat bread” which is stuffed with samosa stuffing. Starch or amylum is also mentioned in recipes, but you can’t make dough from starch alone (see Charles Perry (2)).
For the pasties I chose to use filo dough. This dough is not specifically mentioned in the arab cookbooks I saw, but is does seem to be fairly authentic for the period. From the eleventh century onward there is a Turkish bread consisting of layers, the direct ancestor of filo dough. It wasn’t until around 1500 that the dough sheets were rolled out or spread out until they were paper thin, although extremely thin sheets were mentioned before (a poet describes them as “grasshoppers’ wings” Charles Perry (2)).
Filo dough is made with wheat flour, water, oil and salt. In commercially produced filo dough starch is also added. The starch makes the dough slightly transparent when it is baked. For these pasties I have been lazy and used filo dough bought from a shop.
When you buy filo dough it’s problaby frozen and has to thaw. Once you start to use it you must keep the dough in foil and/or a moist towel because it dries very quickly.

Preparation:
Spread one sheet of filo dough on your work top. Brush with olive or sesame oil. Olive oil was used in the west, sesame oil in the east of tha arab countries. I used sesame oil because I like the taste best in this dish. Cover the sheet with another sheet of dough, brush it with oil, and cover this sheet with a third sheet. Now, using a pizza-cutter, divide the sheets in squares of 5 by 5 centimeters (2 by 2 inches). Brush the edges of the squares again with oil, and place on every square a teaspoon of stuffing. Now you can make either triangles by simply folding the squares diagonally, or little square hats by taking the four points and pinch them together. If you use both stuffings, you could shape the pasties differently according to the stuffing, so people know what each pasty contains.
Put the pasties on an oiled baking tin and place this in the middle of a prehated oven for 25 minutes on 180 dgC (350 dgF). If you bake the pasties in advance, you’ll have to reheat them in the oven to make them crisp again: 5 minutes on 200 dgC (400 dgF). You can not heat them in the microwave, that won’t make them crisp.

To serve:
You can serve these pasties warm or at room temperature. The pomegranate in the picture was meant as decoration, but it was a very good idea to dip the pasties into the slightly sour juice. Yoghurt with mint would also have been a good idea.

Aubergine stuffing

Warning: This adaptation is VERY adapted! Only the ingredients from the original recipe are the same.
As you can read in the origal recipe the aubergine is peeled and boiled in salted water, the other ingredients are mixed seperatedly, and then the aubergine is added together with whole, hardboiled egg yolks. Oil is poured over this, then the whole goes in the oven in a tagine until it has formed a brown crust (see the note of Perry for this recipe).
I have omitted the boiled yolks, roasted the aubergine instead of cooking it, and mixed everything to obtain a stuffing for pasties.
(For 20 to 40 pasties)

Ingredients:
1 aubergine
3 slices of white bread, crumbled without the crust
1 tablespoon in all of powdered coriander, pepper, cinnamon, saffron (ratio=6:3:3:1)
1 1/2 tablespoon chopped or ground almonds
1 tablespoon chopped coriander and mint leaves (ratio=3:4)
1 small egg, stirred
salt to taste

Preparation in advance:
Halve the aubergine lengthwise, sprinkle the cut sides with salt, rinse the salt off after 30 minutes, pat the aubergines dry. Meanwhile preheat the oven to 175 dgC (345 dgF). Roast the aubergine for 30 minutes. Let the aubergine halves cool slightly, then peel off the skin.

Preparation:
Mash the aubergine flesh to a pulp, using a blender or fork. Add the other ingredients, mix well. Use this as stuffing for the pasties (see above).

Spinach stuffing

The adaptation of this recipe has remained close to the original (except for the use of the spinach as stuffing).
(For 20 to 40 pasties)

Ingredients:
1 kilo spinach, or 750 gram wild/winter spinach
1 tablespoon in all of powdered cumin, coriander, cinnamon (ratio=3:2:1)
salt and pepper to taste
2 cloves of garlic, finely chopped
2 tablespoons sesame oil
1 egg yolk (optional)

Preparation in advance:
Wash the spinach. Put it in a pan without adding water (the spinach has enough of its own), bring to the boil and heat until the spinach has lost its volume. Drain well, squeeze to get rid of the last excess water. Then chop the spinach.

Preparation:
Heat the sesame oil in a low, wide pan. Lower the fire, add the chopped garlic, and after a few moments the spices. Mix, and immediately add the spinach. Stirfry until everything is mixed well.
When using the spinach for pasties let the spinach cool to room temperature before stuffing. You can add a raw egg yolk to the spinach, but this is not essential.
This stirfried spinach can also be served as a side course or vegetable, as is the original intention of the medieval recipe.

3 kommentarer

  1. Den var godt nok indviklet den ret. Men smagte forhåbentligt ligeså godt som tilberedningstiden indikerer.
    Da jeg ved hvor glad du er for keltisk kultur her lige en noget nemmere irsk opskrift. Husk det snart er efterår. Til 4-6 personer. Tid max. 40 minutter.

    Kartoffel og porresuppe:
    60 gram smør, 3 mellemstore løg, i tern. 2 porrer i tynde skiver. 750 g. kartofler i 1,5cm tern. 1 dl. havregryn. 2 fed hvidløg presset. 5 dl. hønseboullon. 5 dl. mælk. Peber, stødt muskatnød. Purløg til pynt.
    1. Smelt smørret i en stor gryde, svits løg og porrer i 3 minutter. Tilsæt kartoflerne og fortsæt med stegningen indtil kartoflerne er gyldne.
    2. Rør havregrynene i og lad blandingen stege i 1 minut. Tilsæt hvidløg og steg blandingen i endnu 1 minut. Skru ned for varmen og rør bouillon og mælk i. Lad simre i 30 minutter, indtil grønsagerne er møre, og suppen jævnet.
    3. Tilsæt peber og muskatnød efter behag. Pynt med hakket purløg ved servering.

    Et godt stykke brød til er perfekt, sammen med øl, eller tør hvidvin.

    Sæt Van Morrison & the Chieftains, ‘Irish Heartbeat’ på CD-spilleren. Mums.
    Se denne ret er også kulturberigelse, der er til at forstå.

  2. Jeg foretrækker nu Dolores Kean, Mary Black, Dánu, Clannád etc. og diverse solister som Frank Gavin, når jeg hører irsk musik.

    Nå, men her er en autentisk irsk opskrift:
    :-)

    Irish Stew

    1 lb lamb
    3 lbs potatoes
    1/2 lb carrots
    1/2 lb parsnips
    2 or 3 onions
    Oil for sautéing.
    1 Tbsp brown sugar
    2 cups liquid (stock from the bones if you have time to make it: or a combination of meat stock, wine and water, whatever flavorful liquid you have to hand).
    Salt & pepper
    5 bay leaves
    1 tsp basil

    Cut meat into 1-inch cubes. Brown the onions and the meat with a bit of oil. Slice up the carrots and parsnips . Sauté them for a few minutes and then add just a little bit of brown sugar to glaze them. Meanwhile, be peeling and slicing the potatoes. Slice small potatoes in four, big ones in 6 or 8 pieces. Stick them in a casserole dish with the meat and onions, and add the liquid. If desired, add some barley, but only a small amount (a handful), as it swells up a lot, and add the extra liquid. Add salt and pepper, a few bay leaves, some basil and other herbs if you want. Cover the dish and bake the potatoes and meat in a 350 oven for about 40 minutes, then add the carrots and parsnips. (If you just want to leave it cooking, you can add everything at the same time). It needs to cook for about 1 or 1.5 hours, it’s ready when the potatoes are tender. Mash some of the potatoes in the liquid when you’re eating it, very delicious! Serve hot this vegetable rich meat dish prepared in a traditional Irish way. Quite a treat for a mild March evening on the St Patrick’s Day.

  3. Bortset fra det, var middagen en stor succes – besværet værd, men nok noget man kun laver med et par måneders mellemrum.

Der er lukket for kommentarer.

Follow

Get every new post delivered to your Inbox.

%d bloggers like this: